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| Mimiwhangata |
The Cape Brett lighthouse
stands as a guardian on the eastern side of the Bay of Islands. The coast further south is indented with
harbours, bays, sandy beaches and estuaries all the way to Ocean Beach at the
entrance to Whangarei Harbour. There is
no one road linking these places, though the Russell Road goes as far as Helena
Bay before turning inland. Then there is
a loop road from Hikurangi that takes in the settlements of the Tutukaka Coast. Access to Pataua North is from this road as
it nears Whangarei but to get to Pataua South you have to take the narrow Mount
Tiger Road or the road beside the Whangarei Harbour. Pataua North and South are joined by a
footbridge only. There are various DOC
campgrounds along the way, as well as private ones, but we mainly freedom
camped, and used the car for some trips.
We
began by walking the track to the Cape Brett lighthouse with friends. It took about eight hours and we stayed
overnight at the DOC hut beside the lighthouse, walking back the following day. We set off from Rawhiti, where there is an
ornately carved Māori gateway marking the start of the track. We were soon making our way through bush and
up onto a ridge. For the rest of the
morning we followed the spines of hills—with spectacular coastal views
appearing as the track wove from one side of the peninsula to the other and
back again.
We continued on our way after eating a picnic lunch and,
as we neared a side track to Deep Water Cove, we were startled to see some
walkers appearing from here. It seemed
like cheating to only walk the last part of the track. These people were yachties who had anchored
in the cove and, because they hadn't so far to walk, were carting luxuries we
couldn't carry. Someone was even hefting
a chilly-bin with cold beer and wine inside.
(They didn't even offer anything around later when we were cooking our
dehydrated food and drinking water.)
The last part of the track was tough. There were sheer drop-offs down to the ocean,
then the track went steeply down before going sharply up to the hut. We had to force our tired legs up this last part. It had been a long day but the views had been
amazing. The location was unique—we were
almost surrounded by the Pacific Ocean.
When darkness fell the starry sky seemed to stretch for ever.
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| Oakura Bay |
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| Teal Bay |
Next we drove Tangaroa
south to explore some of the coastal settlements along the Russell Road. At the south end of the Whangaruru Harbour we
turned into the seaside settlement of Oakura.
The stretch of sandy beach here was sheltered from the ocean swell by
outlying islands so I felt safe swimming.
After a few more wiggly kilometres of road we came to Helena Bay. Two bays nestle into the larger Helena Bay, Te Mimiha and Ngawai Bay,
usually known as Teal Bay. We enjoyed
the beach at Teal Bay before following Russell Road uphill to the Helena Bay
Cafe and Gallery. There was great food
and quality artwork here, along with amazing views down to the coast.
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| At Helena Bay Cafe |
We
used the car for our next drive as the road to Mimiwhangata Coastal Park Scenic
Reserve is extremely narrow and windy—not suitable for Tangaroa. The park stretches
on both sides of the peninsula with undulating hills, areas of bush and sandy
beaches. Mimiwhangata was heavily
populated by Māori in pre-European times and inter-tribal battles were fought
there. Evidence of agriculture, middens
and 12 pā sites have been identified.
Europeans
began farming at the site in the 1860s and a decade later there was a
short-lived whaling venture. Even the
Queen has visited Mimiwhangata. Queen
Elizabeth II, together with Prince Philip, Princess Anne and Prince Charles
came ashore from the royal yacht Britannia
for a picnic in 1970. A large scale
tourist development was later planned for Mimiwhangata but once the historical
and archaeological value of the area became known a trust was formed. The Crown bought the land in 1993.
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| Mimiwhangata |
We parked
the car beneath some magnificent pokutukawa trees, brilliant red with summer
blossom, then walked the loop track around the peninsula. This walk took about an hour and a half and
took us past little lakes, home to rare brown teal, and to hilltops where there
were views out to the Poor Knights Islands.
We dropped down to into Mimiwhangata Bay and walked along the beach
before cutting back across the neck of the peninsula to the car park. We enjoyed Okupe Beach, having a picnic and a
swim before taking the drive back to Tangaroa.
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| Mimiwhangata |
From SH 1 several roads lead out to the coast. We took the road from Hikurangi that went out
to the Tutukaka Coast, parking Tangaroa
at Woolleys Bay. From here we took the
car a few kilometres back up the road to Sandy Bay and walked the coastal path
to Whananaki. This track was almost six
kilometres each way, and took around six hours to walk.
The track wound its way around hillsides and headlands,
giving an ever-changing view of the coastline and beaches. After about four kilometres there was a side
track that brought us to a monument commemorating those who lost their lives in
a shipwreck here. The freighter Capitaine Bougainville caught fire and sank in 1975. Of the 37 people aboard only 21 made it to
shore safely, as lifeboats capsized in the rough weather. At Whananaki we walked across the longest
footbridge in the Southern Hemisphere, then turned around and headed back to
Sandy Bay.
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| Capitaine Bougainville Monument |
One
of the best walks in the world came next—from the beautiful sandy crescent of
Matapouri Bay along the cliffs to hidden Whale Bay. There are car parks at several places beside
the beach at Matapouri but they get crowded in summer as there are lots of
baches in the settlement. Boardwalks
through dunes took us down to the beach which curves in a perfect horseshoe
shape with bush-covered headlands at either end. The south end of the beach forms a sandspit,
with the river curving behind it before emptying into the bay. To the north are some little rocky bays with pōhutukawa for
shade and very safe swimming. There
used to be access through a tunnel from here to the Mermaid Pools—tide filled
rock pools—on the other side of the headland.
Unfortunately a rock fall blocked the way but there is a steep track over the hill and the pools are
fun to swim in at low tide.
The
track to Whale Bay started at this end of the beach and went steeply uphill to
the cliff-top. It was only about half an
hour's walk from here to Whale Bay which is tucked in behind another
headland. Pōhutukawa lined the beach,
and there were views along the coast to Woolleys Bay and Whananaki. Because there is no road access to Whale Bay
it was almost deserted and I enjoyed a swim while Malcolm fossicked in the rock
pools. To get back to Matapouri we
climbed up the steps from the beach and took the track that leads to the road,
turning left after a few minutes. This
footpath took us downhill through some bush before leading to the dunes at
Matapouri Beach.
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| Whale Bay |
Just
south of Matapouri is Tutukaka, a pretty harbour with a marina that is home to
charter and dive boats. The Poor Knights
islands are just off shore and the marine reserve that surrounds them is rated
as one of the best ten places to dive in the world. We didn't park in the marina though; we drove
up a private road just to the north that took us to a small car park. This was the start of the walk out to the
Tutukaka lighthouse. A grassy track led
uphill and after a few minutes we looked down to a small beach. Steep steps took us down to the beach (this
is a low tide walk only) and across to a bush clad island. It was another steep uphill climb through
bush to the top of this hillside then we were at the lighthouse. From here we had great views of the coast, the
harbour and inland. This was where we
were headed next.
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| On the lighthouse walk |
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| At Ngunguru |
We
freedom camped beside the estuary at Ngunguru, and turned away from the coast for
a change—we wanted to see Tane Moana, a large kauri. We walked this track with some friend so left
a car at the far (Matapouri) end of the track and walked one way only— about
two hours. Tane Moana is the largest kauri
remaining on the east coast—it's circumference is more than eleven metres. It was exciting to come upon the tree, so
unexpected in an area that is known for its beaches and water-based activities. (Moana means sea). After admiring Tane Moana we continued our
walk, the most pleasant part being closest to the end where we found ourselves
in almost pristine bush.
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| Tane Moana |
It is
important that visitors to areas where kauri are growing be aware of kauri
die-back disease. This terrible disease
is threatening New Zealand's iconic tree with extinction. There is no cure for it—and it can be spread
by minute amounts of soil on shoes and gear.
The mould spores remain viable on footwear for six years, so it is vital
that visitors clean their shoes before entering and when leaving kauri
forests. It is important that walkers
stay on tracks and do not tread on kauri roots.
We always take these precautions in the hope that the disease can be
contained so future generations can enjoy kauri forests as we do.
Information about places mentioned in this post - correct at time of writing
Walks
·
Cape Brett Track
www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-recreation/places-to-go/northland/places/cape-brett-and-whangamumu-area/things-to-do/cape-brett-track/
16.3 km, 8 hr one way, advanced:
tramping track
Cape Brett Hut, bookings
required. Track maintenance fee, adult
$40
Access: Oke Bay, Rawhiti
·
Mimiwhangata Loop Walk
www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-recreation/places-to-go/northland/places/mimiwhangata-coastal-park/
4.5 km, 1.5-2hr, easy: walking
track
Access: Mimiwhangata
Coastal Rd
·
Whananaki Coastal Walkway
http://www.wdc.govt.nz/FacilitiesandRecreation/WalksTrails/Pages/
Whananaki.aspx
5.8km, 3 hr one way, easy:
walking track
Access: McAuslin Rd,
Sandy Bay
·
Matapouri to Whale Bay Headland
Track
www.wdc.govt.nz/FacilitiesandRecreation/WalksTrails/Pages
/MatapouriWhaleBay.aspx
1.1 km, 45 min one way,
easy: walking track
Access: Morrison Rd,
Matapouri
·
Tutukaka Lighthouse Walk
whangareinz.com/holiday/activities/tutukākā-kukutauwhao-island-the-tutukākā-lighthouse-walk
2km, 1.5 hr return, (low
tide only) easy: walking track
Access: Landowners Lane,
Tutukaka
Places to Visit
·
Helena Bay Gallery
1392 Old Russell Rd,
Hikurangi
http://www.galleryhelenabay.co.nz/
Hours: gallery 10.00
am-5.00 pm, cafe 9.30 am-5.00pm
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